As sad as it is to see Sander depart for the third time, after taking over for Raf Simons who left to take over Dior, we were excited to see another successful collection by Rodolfo Paglialunga, formerly of Prada.
Sander has always been seen by the fashion world as the leader of progressive German minimalism, with its distinct and comfortable style. That is why the appointment of an Italian luxury based creative director was seen as a bit of a curve ball. But the risk paid off.
While the collection was nothing to rant and rave over, the collection did feature silhouettes and fabrics that are both wearable and real-world appropriate. The pieces will more than likely be bought by the regular Sander clientele along with many other minimalist believers.
As with all Sander collections, we saw an emphasis placed on loose belted overcoats, contrasting color welted boots and small splashes of color in lace necks and color block cutouts. Patterns were quite restrained: limited to bias stripes and elongated windowpane chalk striping. The lack of splash was quite disappointing, but is to be expected for Paglialunga’s first collection with the house. But what was really missing was a personal touch from his work at Prada, which would have breathed a bit of life into the quite plain aesthetic that was presented.
A perfect implementation of this was Raf Simons’ collections for Jil Sander in Fall/Winter 2008, where the silhouette were updated with a Venetian marble print. That collection’s pieces still stand as the house’s most desired pieces to this day.
While I do not have much to nitpick with this season’s collection overall, I am looking forward to seeing what Paglialunga can deliver when he is throwing his own inspiration into the mix.
The only word that can be used to describe this collection is sheer. For Daniela and Annette Felder it was important that sheer and lace be representative of the empowered strength of femininity embodied by one woman: Uschi Obermaier, a sex symbol of the left wing movement that took place in Germany in 1968.
Obermaier started her career as a model with the magazine “Twen.” Later on in her life she became internationally famous after touring with the Rolling Stones in the 70s and having an affair with both Mick Jagger and Keith Richards, as well as famous guitarist Jimi Hendrix.
It was important for the Felders to capture that sexual essence and showcase it in their collection. That essence was easily seen in the patterned silk organza fabrics that provided completely sheer coverage for the models. Likewise, the leather trimmed go-go miniskirts played an important role in capturing the motifs that were present when the Stones claimed Germany as their stomping ground.
The collection developed into further into 1970s styling with traditional evening gowns in a fractal brush pattern on a black background. Though the black was soon outplayed by a glitter covered flared pant and top in the same fractal brush pattern.
Other pieces in the collection featured lace paired with faux leather glam jackets (the Felders are prominent vegans and therefore use no animal products in their designs). The collection wrapped up with a progression from a pure black color story into more sexualized pink and red designs with cream and black underlays. The pink and red gave each piece a particular pop, which was not seen in the all black version.
While a lot could have gone wrong with an entirely lace based collection for Felder Felder, the end product featured both a strong and feminine female figure that really captures the modern woman.