By: Kajah Vincenty
This season’s Fall 15/16 runway shows featured many different trends from all four cities: New York, London, Milan and Paris. Many of the trends displayed unexpected additions to classic looks, while also exhibiting new ways of creating textural appeal through material construction and embroidery. These trends can easily be incorporated into all of our closets and paired with the remix of our own individual style for the colder season.
A trend that I am extremely excited for is Sportswear Luxe. This trend is the best of both worlds: a perfect mix of athletic wear and luxurious materials. In New York polo shirts made a comeback: they were shown on the Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler runways.
This trend was also seen all over the Paris runways. It includes baseball jackets, sweatshirts and track pants paired with luxury fabrics such as silk, leather and bonded jersey. To give some of these looks a sporty feel, designers featured racing stripes and jogger-inspired pants with sophisticated and polished additions.
Image 1: Alexis Mabille
Image 2: Paco Rabanne
Image 3: Cedric Charlier
Paris footwear, with their focus on abstract details, made some bold statements. Paco Rabanne and Maison Margiela both presented a unique styled heel with architectural inspiration mirroring stair cases.
Similarly, Dior and Acne Studios presented 60s inspired pumps with patent leather and funky molded heels resembling crushed metal and crystal clear glass or plastic.
Image 9: Acne Studios
Image 10: Christian Dior
Image 11: Maison Margiela
Image 12: Paco Rabanne
The Pleated Edge
Pleats have grown up from their school girl days. Some designers gave an edgy touch to their looks by placing pleats asymmetrically or by mixing different materials, such as leather and fluid-like elements. Some pleats were strong and intense, while others were soft and smooth. So no matter your style, there will surely be a perfect pleat to match come fall.
Image 13: Cedric Charlier
Image 14: Chalayan
Image 15: Chalayan
Image 16: Haider Ackermann
Another trend that will help step up your skirt game is the metallic skirt trend. Seen on the Tods and Trussardi runways in Milan, this style can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. On the runway the trend was often paired with a simple sweater, an outfit that many of us normal folks can easily replicate come fall.
Fun fashion is my favorite fashion! Prada used floral embellishments and award ribbon inspiration on the shoulders of their looks. While Dolce and Gabbana incorporated child-doodles onto the front of their dresses, which I believe was inspired by the unique Angelina Jolie wedding gown. In New York patches were seen in muted tones on the Derek Lam runway, while on the Jeremy Scott runway they were a lot brighter and a lot more cartoonish.
Image 22: Prada
Image 23: Dolce and Gabanna
Image 24: Gucci
Just as there was an emphasis on hips, wide-waist belts also contributed to the waist focus. Some belts featured furry and leather textures and accents of metal buckles, while bows added even more attention the waistlines. In New York a kimono style belt was seen on the Tome and Rosie Assoulin runways, most often in light, pastel colors.
Image 25: Anthony Vaccarello
Image 26: Lemaire
Image 27: Rochas
Image 28: Vionnet
Another textural trend seen in many shows appeared in the form of fur. But we are not just talking fur coats, but also fur bags and shoes. In New York they used a lot of fox fur, while in London it was a lot fluffier. In Milan there were a lot of “yeti” style coats: Roberto Cavalli put white fur coats on the runway, while Phillip Plein chose to showcase a reddish-pink coat with a black, belted waist.
Though fur shoes may not be that practical, they are still a lot of fun. During Milan fashion week both Fendi and Gucci had models walk the runway in furry footed shoes. In Gucci’s case the shoes more closely resembled guinea pigs than actual footwear.
In the case of fur bags, some were big, while others were more pocket sized. Along with furry textures, the bags also used bright colors and bold patterns to add even more textural attention.
Image 29: Sharon Wauchob
Image 30: Vionnet
Image 31: Balmain
It seems it is time to put your skinny jeans away. The new “it” style in denim appears to be the flare jean. The bellbottom style was popular in New York, both on the runway – at Coach and Theory – and off: many popular street style stars also rocked the 70s throwback style.
The pant style was also seen on the London runways, popping up on the Topshop Unique, Felder Felder and Jonathan Saunders runways. Though in all three, the style was not made in denim but other materials and colors, like velvet and bright red.
While red has always been a popular shade, pink is fast becoming the new top color. While it was huge in New York it was equally as big in London, where it was spotted on the Mary Kantrazou, Toga and Sibling runway.
Similarly, eggplant was also seen frequently, both at Vielma London and Barbara Casasola runways. Eggplant is a great change up, and the perfect warm shade come fall.
While new warm colors were spotted in all four cities, once again it seems black will be a go-to shade when the weather turns cooler. Though black can come across as boring, many of the clothes that walked the runway had a lot of added details: like fringe and lace.
All images from www.wgsn.com