For his collection, Australian born Dion Lee focused on oceanic inspiration both in color and silhouette – at the beginning of the collection we see an emphasis placed on netting overlaid on strong white and black grounds, set bias cut flared sleeved tops. He breaks down complex drapery of each handkerchief hem dress by accentuating exaggerated ruffles at the hip, but grounds the collection with a mastery of crisp male influenced shirting. The collection continues with a focus on oriental sea greens set with metallic sheens, and again paired with netted coverings; flairs become far more prominent, with an even greater direction towards strong bias cut fabrics, however, the flaring is placed not to disrupt each model’s natural movement. In later looks we see the oceanic themes broken down into luxe grunge elements, with a cropped shearling biker jacket over an emphasized basic flared dress, and then a progression into a knee opening biker pant composed of bias cut folded streamers done in a metallic sheen.
Thick textured knits with metallic flecks make the statement for Wes Gordon’s fall collection – we see the show start with strong tweed jackets and sheared fur coats, placed over slip dresses paired with large chunky footwear designed for the collection by Manolo Blahnik. The cuts are all traditional, and focus on metallic threading to produce depth of composition, with texture presented in thick roll neck sweaters and chalk striped mink sweatshirts over sheen slip dresses. Heavy cuffs are present on both the sweaters and tailoring, giving a natural sportswear vibe. We see a deconstruction of these first looks into a far sexier look later in the collection, with an emphasis on iris and floral stories done with hand beading that brings light into play.
Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte have grown progressively over the years thanks in part to their absolute mastery of fashion as an expression of a motif or emotion and carrying it across an entire collection – this season is no exception. The girls took major inspiration from traditional English tailoring from prominent Savile Row tailors and featured heavy tweed outerwear with wide color blocked lapels. The looks were brought to today’s womenswear standards by pairing these heavy tweeds with light white lace tops that give the aura of harlequin romance that is the perfect mix of masculine and feminine styling. The primary story throughout the collection is the migration of birds, shown in the bold royal colors and feather attachments on almost all of the presented garments as well as the set pieces, which have been superimposed with disco glamor music and bright metallic sequins.